Toyota Tacoma

2.5" Suspension Lift Install

Vehicle Information: 2001 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab, Automatic transmission, 4WD 3.4L V6.
These are basic instructions on how to
2.5" Cornbred Lift Spacers
Procomp 2.5" Rear SHORT Add-a-Leafs = EXP -13120
Procomp 2.5" Rear LONG Add-a-Leafs =  EXP - 13124
Rancho RS5000 Front Struts = RS5761(need 2)
Rancho RS5000 Rear Shocks Passenger Side:
Rancho RS5000 Rear Shocks Drivers Side:
& BPV Proportioning Valve Relocation Bracket

Use this information AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Parts Needed & Other Information: Metric open end/combination wrenches, Metric socket set, Metric Allen wrenches, 2 sets of jack stands, Hydraulic Jack (preferred), Prying devices, C-Clamps, Cutting Wheels / Dremel Tool and a trip to your local auto store with a WALL mounted spring compressor.

1) FRONT LIFT: Place the truck on a flat surface.  Engage the emergency brake. Take the hydraulic jack and wheel it underneath the frame behind the front tire.  In this picture, youíll notice we used 2 pieces of wood on top of the hydraulic jack. These pieces of wood are used to raise the vehicle up further to accommodate the new lift (our hydraulic jack doesnít go high enough).  Jack the truck up high enough to accommodate enough room to put the wheels back on. Leave approx. 3-4" space between the bottom of the tire and the ground. Place the tallest/biggest jack stand underneath the frame as seen in the picture. Slowly lower the hydraulic jack and let the truck rest on the jack stand.  Once the frame is securely resting on the jack stand, remove the hydraulic jack.  Do the same thing for the other side of the vehicle. Now, the front end of the vehicle (both sides) is resting on the jack stands, remove both wheels from the vehicle (21mm socket)

2)  Disconnect the Sway Bar.  Only one side is needed, however, for more flexibility, you can disconnect both sides.  Youíll need a 6mm hexhead/allen wrench to hold the stud and a 17mm open-end wrench to remove the nut as seen below.

3)  Locate the 3 bolts on top of the coil assembly (as seen below). Loosen these bolts but do not remove them. You will need these nuts to hold the assembly in place while you are removing the lower strut bolt.  DO NOT TOUCH THE CENTER NUT!!
4) Once you have loosened the upper 3 bolts, focus your attention on the lower portion of the strut. This is where the strut is mounted on the A-arm.  Using a 19mm socket and a 19mm open-end wrench, loosen and remove the bolt holding the strut in place. 
5)  After removing the bolt at the bottom, hold the entire coil/strut assembly firmly while removing the top 3 nuts.  Then, carefully lower the assembly out of the vehicle. Make sure you LABEL each coil assembly accordingly to make sure the coils go back in the same side they came out of.  As seen below, the entire coil/strut assembly ready to be compressed!
6)  Refer to your Cornbred Lift Spacer instructions for the installation of the spacers in your coil assembly. I would recommend taking your coil/strut assembly to the nearest garage (or friend with a garage) that has a WALL MOUNTED spring compressor. Compressing the coils can be a royal pain and can be extremely unsafe and harmful if not done correctly. When taking the assembly to a garage, make sure the holes (2nd generation spacer) or the studs (1st generation spacer) are properly aligned with the strut mount as seen in your instructions or HERE. Below, you can see the final coil/strut assembly with the Rancho RS5000 struts and 2.5" 2nd generation lift spacer.

7)  Carefully lift the new coil/strut assembly and maneuver them in place. Make sure you are putting the same coils on the same side as they came out of. Install the new bolts only slightly (2nd generation). This will give you more maneuverability when installing the lower strut bolt. 

8) Install the lower strut bolt. You may need some help from some friends. One person to push down on the lower a-arm, while another person lines up the holes and installs the bolt. 

9) Tighten the lower strut bolt and the 3 bolts at the top. 

10)  Put your sway bar back on and tighten.

11)  Install your wheels & tires.

12)  Using the Hydraulic Jack, jack the truck up enough to lift the frame off the jack stands.  Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle. The front is done!!!

1) REAR LIFT: Put the truck in gear, or in Park. Take a wheel chock (big block of wood) and place in front of one of the front wheels to prevent the truck from rolling in case it jumps out of gear.  Disengage the emergency brake.

2) Place the hydraulic jack underneath the rear pumpkin and jack up the truck as high as you can. Place a jack stand underneath the frame similar to what you did earlier. Placing the jack stand under the frame in front of rear wheels near the leaf spring eye (both sides).

3)  Slowly lower the hydraulic jack until the vehicle is sitting on the jack stands 
4)  Remove rear wheels. Remove Rear Shocks.

5)  Place another set of jack stands underneath the axle on both sides of the pumpkin for now (precautionary safety feature).  Leave the hydraulic jack underneath the pumpkin.
NOTE: We found it easier to work on the passenger side first while leaving the driver side intact. The drivers side of the axle holds the brake line - it is critical to 'watch' the brake line during this installation.  It is possible to over stretch the brake line if you are not paying attention. 

Passenger Side:
6)  Disconnect the emergency brake cable from the drum.  This is done by simply removing the pin and pulling the bracket off. 

7) Using a 19mm socket, loosen and remove the nuts holding the U-bolts in place. Remove U-bolts, bottome plate, & bump stop.
8)  Slowly lower the rear axle. The leaf springs will separate from the axle.  Lower the axle enough to give about 2-3 inches clearance between the perch and the springs. **It is important to work on one side at a time. This ensures the pumpkin stays in position (doesn't pitch up or down) and helps prevent the brake lines from over-stretching**

9)  Using a small set of C-clamps or a pair of vice grips, clamp on the leaf springs (not the overload) at the outer edges temporarily to ensure they do not separate when the pin is removed.

10)  Remove the centering pin (this picture was taken from the drivers side).

11)  Remove the overload leaf from the leaf pak.

12)  Install the Add-a-leaf using a new (longer) centering pin that should be supplied with the kit. Make sure the over-load leaf and the Add-A-Leaf are in the proper orientation before placing the centering pin in place. 


13)  Use 2 -C clamps on each side of the centering pin to clamp down on all the leafs including the Add-a-leaf and overload leaf.  Carefully crank down on the C-clamps. This will help bring the leafs together and help you get the centering pin in place. 

14)  Place the nut on the centering pin at the top and tighten it down slightly - closing all the leafs together.  Remove your C-clamps. 


15)   After fully tightening the centering pin & nut, check to make sure your bump stop fits over top the centering pin.  In some kits, the centering pin is too long and may require you to cut off the excessive length.

16)  Now, you'll need to align the centering pin head with the hole in the leaf spring perch on the axle.  This may take some maneuvering and may require you to raise or lower the axle.

Note: Make sure your leafs are properly aligned in the centering hole.
17)  Install your bump stop, U-bolts, and bottom plate. Make sure your bottom plate is in the proper orientation for the shock mount. Tighten everything down.  Install the Emergency brake cable. 
Driver Side:
18)  Remove the emergency brake cable from the drum. 

19)  Installation of the drivers side will be similar to the passenger side, however, because the brake line is stretched, we took a different approach. Remove the U-bolts, bottom plate, and bump stop.  Instead of lowering the axle further like we did for the passenger side, we decided to remove the front eye bolt of the leaf pak. This will prevent further stretching of the brake line.  Using a 19mm socket & wrench, we removed the front leaf eye bolt (end without the shackle).  This allows the entire leaf pack to pivot, giving us more room to work.

20)  Similar to what you did on the other side (Step # 9) - clamp your leafs in place (not overload leaf), and remove the centering pin (Step # 10). Install the new Add-a-leaf, overload leaf and centering pin similar to the passenger side using C-clamps (Steps # 11, 12,13). This may take some maneuvering. Have some friends help you. 

21)  Once again, install the centering pin nut and tighten down to pull the leafs together (Step # 14). 

22) Once again, check to see the bump stop fits - you may need to cut the centering pin (Step # 15). 

23) Align the centering pin in the hole on the spring perch (Step # 16). 

24) Ensure the leaf centering pin & nut are tight and the centering pin is in the hole on the leaf spring perch on the axle.  Install your bump stop, U-bolts, and bottom plate. Tighten.

25)  Now is the time to Re-install the drivers side leaf pak back into the frame mount.  This will take some work.  We used a crow bar to flex the shackle back and forth to position it in place while someone else installed the bolt through the holes. 

26) Install emergency brake cable.

27) Install rear shocks (as seen to the right).

Other: If you have a Brake Proportioning Valve relocation bracket, now is a good time to install it while there's plenty of room under the truck.  Follow the instructions on the BPV bracket you have purchased. 

28) Remove the jack stands from under the axle.  Install your wheels.  Raise the vehicle enough to get the frame off the jack stands - remove jack stands and slowly lower vehicle.

You're done!!!


That's It!!
Please - Be Safe - Be Patient - and Good Luck!